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Authentic Voices:
Conversations on Food and Agriculture

 
Professor Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney

Food for Thought: On Rice, Beef, Nature, Food Safety, and McDonald’s in Japan

Interview with Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney
William F. Vilas Research Professor of Anthropology, University of Wisconsin-Madison

By Norma Sakamoto-Larzalere
March 12, 2004

 

Professor Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney is a William F. Vilas Research Professor of Anthropology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. An expert in the social, cultural, and symbolic anthropology of Japan, she earned her Ph.D. from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. She is the author of 12 books in English and Japanese, including “Illness and Culture in Contemporary Japan: An Anthropological View” (1984), “The Monkey as Mirror: Symbolic Transformations in Japanese History and Ritual” (1987), “Rice as Self: Japanese Identities Through Time” (1993), and “Kamikaze, Cherry Blossoms, and Nationalisms: the Militarization of Aesthetics in Japanese History” (2002). Professor Ohnuki-Tierney has been awarded the Guggenheim, National Endowment for the Humanities, and Japan Foundation fellowships, and is a fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences.

1. Background

2. Significance of Rice and other Foods in Japan

3. Concept of Nature and what is Natural in Japanese Foods

4. Food Safety in Japan

5. McDonald’s and Changing Table Manners in Japan

6. Globalism and the Japan/United States Food Market

7. Concluding Thoughts

Background

LARZALERE: First of all, could you tell us a little about your educational background? How did you come to study anthropology?

OHNUKI-TIERNEY: Oh, I just came [to the United States] without any particular ambition or even purpose. The first year I was totally confused, culturally. And somebody said, "you ought to take a course on anthropology because you don't understand American culture." I took a course and I was fascinated—

L: Was this as an undergraduate?

OT: I was a graduate student. I had a BA from Tsuda College in Japan and came here. At that time, the only thing a woman was supposed to do was to get married. So I wasn't even trained to think in terms of a profession. But I always liked to read ever since I was little. I was very lucky even in elementary school; there were teachers who encouraged me. Rather than saying, "why should you read? You're just a little girl." So anyway, that's how I got into anthropology.

L: Do you have a BA and MA in anthropology?

OT: I have an MA and Ph.D. in anthropology.

L: Both at Wisconsin?

OT: No, I started out at Wayne State in Detroit and then transferred to Wisconsin.

L: You have such a wide-range of research--what are your primary areas of study in anthropology?

OT: My areas include symbolic anthropology and I did quite a bit of work with the Sakhalin Ainu. But I realized I couldn't tell my graduate students to find hunters and gatherers anymore. To do memory culture had limitations. So I switched to my own culture and I wrote my first book, "Illness and Culture in Contemporary Japan"(1984). And I realized I couldn't understand Japanese culture as a synchronic slice of time. So I became increasingly interested in the historicization of anthropology. So after the first book--"The Monkey as Mirror," and "Rice As Self," [the second and third publications] were more into historicizing anthropology. And also my recent book, "Kamikaze, Cherry Blossoms, and Nationalisms." So I would say [my areas] are historical anthropology and symbolism.

L: You cover a wide-range of topics including the Chinese in Detroit.

OT: Oh, yes, yes--actually that was historical. I spent a great deal of time going through the American newspapers and their coverage of the Detroit Chinese. I traced from when they first arrived for the Pacific Railroad construction, through the 1960s. I looked at what sort of social organizations had to undergo change.

L: I wonder if you could share with us something you had mentioned in the acknowledgments of "Rice As Self"? You were an elementary school student after World War II and discovered your calling to become a scientist. Could you tell us a little about that time?

OT: Yes, that was the time that--as I said, I was very fortunate to have this teacher, Fujita Sensei, for whom I dedicated my book --who really took care of me. Kônan [Elementary School] was an elite country school. Fifteen girls and fifteen boys. Most came from well-to-do corporate families. I did not but he took a special interest in me and encouraged me to study. He's the one who took us to see a movie about Madame Curie. And I was very impressed by her. I was so stupid and said to him, " I want to be Madame Curie." He did not laugh at me. Later, we began doing chemistry experiments together. In retrospect, he was just an amazing fellow since, at that time, no one saw a future for girls other than becoming wives.

L: And you have to consider the times--you had mentioned that at your school children suffered from a shortage of food, eating rice gruel and red beans with small potatoes. And that later Fujita Sensei gave you rice from his family’s private supply--he was able to rise above all of that and try to educate the students.

OT: Yes, that's right. And not only that--as I said--students came from very well known corporate families. We did not--so rather than catering to sons and daughters of big names, he took an interest in me just because I liked to study.

L: So he was right to encourage you--here you are today!

OT: I really feel indebted to him. Throughout my life I've had some individuals who helped me--who transcended the culture--I was very fortunate to encounter, for example, an editor for Iwanami, the top publishing house in Japan. He was from the International Christian University and read English very well. So he read my, "Illness and Culture in Contemporary Japan" --and he traveled from Tokyo all the way to my mother's home--and said he’d liked to have a Japanese version of this. And later he became president of Iwanami. The last book he pushed was my " Kamikaze, Cherry Blossoms, and Nationalisms." He has since retired from the presidency. So--there are a few individuals who were crucial in helping me in my profession.

L: It just happens sometimes in your life—

OT: That's right. I didn't have to come from Harvard for him to even take a look at my book.

Next: Significance of Rice and other Foods in Japan