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Authentic Voices:
Conversations on Food and Agriculture

 
Professor Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney

Food for Thought: On Rice, Beef, Nature, Food Safety, and McDonald’s in Japan

Interview with Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney
William F. Vilas Research Professor of Anthropology, University of Wisconsin-Madison

By Norma Sakamoto-Larzalere
March 12, 2004

 

Professor Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney is a William F. Vilas Research Professor of Anthropology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. An expert in the social, cultural, and symbolic anthropology of Japan, she earned her Ph.D. from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. She is the author of 12 books in English and Japanese, including “Illness and Culture in Contemporary Japan: An Anthropological View” (1984), “The Monkey as Mirror: Symbolic Transformations in Japanese History and Ritual” (1987), “Rice as Self: Japanese Identities Through Time” (1993), and “Kamikaze, Cherry Blossoms, and Nationalisms: the Militarization of Aesthetics in Japanese History” (2002). Professor Ohnuki-Tierney has been awarded the Guggenheim, National Endowment for the Humanities, and Japan Foundation fellowships, and is a fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences.

1. Background

2. Significance of Rice and other Foods in Japan

3. Concept of Nature and what is Natural in Japanese Foods

4. Food Safety in Japan

5. McDonald’s and Changing Table Manners in Japan

6. Globalism and the Japan/United States Food Market

7. Concluding Thoughts

Concluding Thoughts

L: As a final question, what advice would you give to budding anthropologists and those in other disciplines?

OT: Well—I have not been politically sagacious and I have been lucky, as I told you in the beginning, that what I have been doing has always been a hobby. I just pursued what I felt like doing. And I never went on a bandwagon. What saved me—and I feel I still have many more books to write along the way—was that I could do whatever I felt was interesting. I think some people are successful professionally but if you don’t pursue what you are passionate about, you get burned out.

L: Also, you mentioned about discovering things along the way too—

OT: Yes, indeed. Because every book I started out in a different way—for example, in “The Monkey as Mirror,” I just wanted to study the metaphysical importance of the monkey and ended up with a dynamic social history—and with “Kamikaze, Cherry Blossoms, and Nationalisms,” I just wanted to have fun writing about cherry blossoms—and then I discovered how the military abused the symbolism of the cherry blossom—and the unexpected angles and results of the research.

L: And your research on the, “The Rice as Self,”—

OT: Yes, as I said earlier, I was interested in marginalized social groups and the agarian population—and was getting interested in food—and the concept of identities. But I did not realize to what extent the agrarian hegemony was part and parcel of the development of the minorities. I did not realize rice was not eaten by the majority of the Japanese until very recently.

L: And in terms of nature and natural, the most unnatural food is polished white rice.

OT: Absolutely, and in fact it has a great deal to do with the military—they invited the soldiers from the countryside—who were rice producers and not consumers—and they were feeding them white rice. Beriberi was the major cause of death among the soldiers. And they tried to counterbalance that with other foods. Polished rice was the least nutritious food.

L: You are in a unique position, originally from Japan and coming over to the United States. What do you feel is your contribution to anthropology?

OT: I don’t know what my contribution is but I blindly pursued my own interests, regardless of what was expected of me—and I have been influenced by major debates—I was influenced by structuralism to a certain degree—I was influenced by postmodernism to a degree. But I never took any of that in toto. So some people think I’m really interested in theory but it was only to illuminate my historical ethnography. I always want to build my conclusions out of the dialectic between theoretical interests and historical and ethnographic data. But as far as my contribution goes—I just don’t know—

L: As you said, you do what you feel is right, and, most importantly, you have a passionate interest in your research.

It was a pleasure and an honor to meet with you today.

OT: I enjoyed it very much. Thank you so much for paying attention to my work.

L: Thank you very much.